2002

---

Saturday 14 September 2002

This morning marks the first day of what is planned as a month long trip round Egypt. Originally I only started to look at going here because I wanted to get some sun and do a spot of diving in the Red Sea.

Of course, then I did my research and discovered how much more there is to see and do there, and decided to join an organised tour for the first couple of weeks to see all this other stuff, then leave the group in Dahab on the Red Sea coast where I figured I could hang out and get that diving done.

So what was to follow was two weeks of intensive travel, a lot of the sights of the ancient country jammed in here, all arranged by the friendly folk at Imaginitive Traveller - just get up each day and follow the gang on todays route - how hard can this be?!

Read on for the details... what the trip dossier promised, and how things really panned out.

Central Cairo from the air. You may just be able to make out the island in the Nile, and the Cairo Tower on said island.

This first day was just a prelude for me... the tour itself wasn't due to get underway for real until Monday. Luckily enough I was met ontime by a rep. and managed to negotiate immigration and customs, and soon enough was marvelling at the traffic mahen on the way into central Cairo.

Nothing much else to do this evening except take in a pretty hearty meal on the rooftop bar of our hotel and chill out there with a few fellow travellers, expecting to be able to make an early start the next day.

Sunday 15 September 2002

Day 1, CAIRO - Arrive in Cairo and check into your hotel. No Meals

ARRIVAL

For details of arrival transfers or making your own way to the tour meeting point, please refer to the Egypt Country Dossier and Pre Departure Information booklet which will be issued upon booking.

TOUR BRIEFING

Once all the members of your group have arrived, your tour leader will gather the group together for an introductory briefing. This briefing usually takes place after breakfast on Day 2, and will provide you with a broad outline of your trip and also give you some useful tips for your stay.

OK - so this wasn't really part of tour, which didn't have any planned time in Cairo. Decided to go and check out some of the old town, and after breakfast found myself puzzeled as to why the hotel doorman said a cab to Khan Al-Khalili would cost 10LE, but on the way back I should only expect to pay 5... hmmm... only later did I figure out it was because on the way there the cabbies would be giving him a nice backhander for pointing me in their direction. Tip number one: find your own cab outside any hotel.

So this lead to a nice argument with the cabbie on my exit on Sharia al-Azhar, made a little worse by the fact this didn't look anything like the place I was expecting to get out, and the cabbie couldn't show me where we were on my map. Still - no problem I thought and began to walk in the direction of the big domes and stuff I wanted to see.

I later discovered that I should have been walking in the opposite direction, figured this out after 10 minutes ambling down some very empty, narrow streets without seeing another tourist looking type but instead passing many locals, crates of chickens, pidgeons and the like, and under some decidely dodgy looking scaffolding.

Oh well - backtrack to the original dropoff point before crossing the road in the right direction and finding Midan Hussein and the Kan al-Khalili bizare.

Nice enough to wonder through, but this place did seem a little quiet, perhaps this was too early in the day or something? Still, was an interesting enough introduction to Cairo and it was getting a little warm now so decided the hotel pool would be a much better place to be and tried to hail a cab for my return.

This really is a very strange system... all the cabs have a meter, but nobody uses them, make a deal when the cab stops and try and get them to stick to it. Got into another very battered vehical (erm... looking like a 1960s Fiat) and made the deal for 5LE (ah... my bargaining skills becoming honed already!). I was joined in the car by a local who hopped in after waving at the driver and uttering something I think was along the lines of, "Hey... is this pommie tourist paying to go downtown? How about I come along for free?". To which the driver gestured the OK and said something which was possibly, "Sure thing, and the sucker thinks 5 is a good price for this trip!"

You see all sorts of amazing sites on the Cairo roads... witness the cyclist carrying a 6 foot dish of bread on his head through this intersection! Oh... and incase you wonder why I happened to be hanging about at this particular junction? See the cab with the flat tire on the roof? Leaning to one side because the wheel is being changed? Erm... well I am a passenger in said taxi!

Another madcap Cairo cab trip followed... only briefly interrupted by a flat tire, which the driver proceeded to change double quick. My fellow passenger decided this was his cue to exit though and prompty wondered off into the oncomming traffic in search of another free ride. I thought about doing the same, but then I guessed that if you get a flat the last thing you need is your fair ditching you too so stuck around and completed the journey with this guy.

Was dropped outside the Egyptian Museam and made the short (erm... OK, 40 minute?) walk back to our hotel, where sure enough, by this time the pool was looking exceedingly good!

Lazed around by the pool for a while before walking back out into the city and round to the Cairo Tower, apparantly the second biggest attraction here (after the Pyramids). Well... it's a nice enough view from the top, shame about the effect of the smog though.

The view east from the top of the Cairo Tower. Behind all those ugly 'modern' looking hotels is the old town with the Citadel far in the distance.

Back to the hotel after this for dinner and a first introduction to the tour guide and a few other passengers. Ah... this lot seem OK... had a few beers and another dinner on the hotel roof with them just to double check.

Monday 16 September 2002

Day 2, CAIRO - A guided visit to the Great Pyramids & Sphinx at Giza. Overnight train to Aswan. Approx. 14 hrs train journey.

CAIRO

With a population of about 18 million, Cairo is the largest city in Africa. It is a city that is constantly bustling with activity and noise. Most tours include some free time in Cairo and there is no shortage of things to do. In addition to the obvious sites, you may wish to spend time wandering through the bazaars in search of a bargain or the perfect souvenir. You may prefer instead to go out to Giza and ride Arabian horses in the desert near the Pyramids or, if it is not included as part of your tour, make the journey to Saqqara to see the Step Pyramid. You'll find that, despite being very much a Middle Eastern City, Cairo is quite modern in many respects and has a wide range of shops and restaurants offering as wide a variety of cuisine as you would find in any major city.

GREAT PYRAMIDS & SPHINX

The Great Pyramids at Giza, the only one of the 'Seven Wonders of the Ancient World' still standing, are undoubtedly one of the highlights of any visit to Egypt. Our Egyptologist will explain the history of these massive tombs and you will have the opportunity to go inside the Great Pyramids of Cheops (not for the claustrophobic). You'll also see the Sphinx near the base of Chephren's pyramid.

Cool... so we get to see the Pyramids today? Had brekkie and met up with a few stragglers that didn't make the meeting the previous evening.

Although the food in the hotel was mighty tastey, the stomach wasn't a happy bunny this morning. Damn! After only a couple of days and I have been hit by the curse of the Nile. Oh well - the show must go on as they say so popped some pills and headed off to the Giza Plateau.

Rob standing in front of a big pile of rocks... erm... the Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops).

Yup - these things are very big. Ventured inside the marginally smaller Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren). Not quiet as expected, it was actually hotter and more huid inside the structure than outside. After only a short wonder to the centre and the burieal chamber (erm... 2 stories high, about half the size of a squash court?) we (myself and a few others who chose to do this little extra) were all rahter hot and sweaty and I must admit I was quiet relieved to get back out into the 40 degree 'coolness' outside!

	Sorry - Rob in a cheesy tourist pose at the Giza Plateau.
Khafre's Valley Temple, The Sphinx and the three great pyramids beyond.
	The Spinx and Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops).

After a few hours in this sun returning to the hotel and getting back into that pool was sounding really good. We returned via a whistlestop tour of a papyrus 'museam' (aka. one of thousands of places selling what has to be said, is very nice artwork on this ancient paper), most of the group headed of for an optional couple of hours in the Egyptian Museam but I'd heard you needed a lot more time than this and headed for that pool instead.

Later on, had dinner in a one option cafe... I mean... there was no menu, it only served one dish (of beans, pasta, rice and tomatoe like sauce), the only decision to make here was large or small... oh, and Coke or Fanta. Very nice all the same though. After a quick stop in a 'supermarket' (aka. corner store) for some snacks for the train trip it was off to the station for the long ride down to Aswan.

Tuesday 17 September 2002

Day 3, ASWAN - Arrive in Aswan and check into your hotel. The remainder of the day is free.

ASWAN

Aswan is Egypt's southernmost city and, for many visitors, the most enjoyable. At Aswan the Nile is at its most picturesque, with golden sand dunes coming right to the water's edge on the west bank and scores of white sailed feluccas gliding around the islands. The people of Aswan are predominantly Nubian and much more African in appearance than other Egyptians. They are generally cheerful and friendly. Aswan's bazaars run almost the whole length of the town, with one long, winding, street crammed with shops and stalls of all kinds. The best time to explore the bazaars is in the evening when you'll find them at their busiest with the streets full of activity. For those who have seen enough historical sights, spare time in Aswan is usually spent in the bazaars, sailing around the islands in a felucca, relaxing by one of the many swimming pools or perhaps, taking afternoon tea on the terrace of the Old Cataract hotel.

Staggering off the train into 40 degree plus heat and blinding sunshine was a pleasant relief from the tourment of the train. Hmmm... OK, so perhaps 'tourment' is a bit of an exageration, but it has to be said that although the carriage looked mighty comfortable (big reclining seats, aircon, etc.) at first sight, some poor design in the footrest department (like - they are in just the right place to smash into my shins every 5 minutes and can't be removed) and overzealous airconditioning (amazingly this was so cold a number of us got out our sleeping bags!) meant that this trip was, for me at least, an excercise in sleep deprivation.

Oh well, never mind and all that, all part of the fun, and off to the hotel we went.

Aswan turns out to be a lot more relaxed than Cairo (in the 'people hastling your for money at every turn' stakes). Wondered the bizare looking for some desert garments (I wanted long sleeved, white cotton shirts to keep the sun off) but found nothing.

Love the blue coloured spice stuff (whatever this was - I did ask but don't remember). I told the storekeeper to try and look casual, I think it got lost in the translation somewhere!

Almost considered a Galibau (sp?) and hacking the bottom off it. This was pretty interesting because I really didn't want the item, but the storekeeper I was talking to just didn't understand, and down came the price. After many exchanges of, "You don't understand... it's not the price, I just don't want it!!" I had to give up and walk off, but not until his garment had dropped from 140LE for one, to two for 40LE! Wow, shows what can be achived here I though.

I was just about to give up when I spotted something almost perfect... nice shirt, but with short sleaves. No problem to this particular store keeper as he offered to rustle me up this item in a couple of hours, with long sleave and an adjusted collar size. Sure enough, two hours later on my return I walked away with a couple of fine shirts for 65LE the pair.

Feluccas on the Nile near Aswan.

This evening took the group to Elephantine Island for dinner in the Nubian village, on the roof of a local's house. Nice food, but still feeling a little iffy. The trip there was great fun... not only do the Nubians act as local ferry operators, but a number of them taking us across to the island had brough along drums and the like and turned up the entertainment here, getting everyone on the Felucca up and dancing around to the infectious rythm.

Not quiet as noisy on the way back, but just as well as night had fallen and we were harassed by the local river police. This sort of thing seems like par for the course here in Egypt and a bit of a corruption in our midst. Hit the sack around 11ish I think? The sleep deprivation continues though - it's a 3am start tomorrow for a side trip to Abu Simbel.

Wednesday 18 September 2002

Day 4, ASWAN. A free day allows time to visit the impressive Temples at Abu Simbel.

ABOUT THE SITE

Built by Ramses II in the 13 th century BC, the temples at Abu Simbel are among the most impressive in all of Egypt. On the site are the Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of his favourite wife, Queen Nefertari. Originally built into a rock face overlooking the river Nile, these temples were destined to be submerged beneath the rising waters of Lake Nasser until a UNESCO project dismantled and rebuilt the temples on a new site some 65 metres higher up. Both temples are extraordinary, and you can clearly see how close they came to being submerged, by the watermarks around the base of the statues. As well as the spectacle of the ancient temples you can also see how the UNESCO project rescued the temples and moved them to their current location.

Wow! This place is well worth the 3 hour each way trip from Aswan.

	Carvings (and tourists) in the Great Hypostyle Hall, inside the Great Temple of Ramses II.
	The leftmost (youngest looking) of the four enormous (these are 30m high!) statues of Ramses II at the entrace to the Great Temple of Ramses II.
	The temples of Hathor (foreground) and Ramses II at the Abu Simbel site.
	Four enourmous (30m high) statues at the entrance to the Great Temple of Ramses II.
	A dancer performs that incredible spinny-round kindof dance at a rooftop dinner here in Aswan.

Thursday 19 September 2002

Day 5, FELUCCA CRUISE - A morning at leisure. This afternoon board traditional feluccas and commence our voyage down the Nile in the company of local sailors.

NILE FELUCCA CRUISE

Feluccas are traditional sailing boats that have been used on the Nile for centuries. Originally introduced by the Romans these simple boats provide one of the most romantic and relaxing ways to see one of the world's greatest rivers. They have no motor or modern conveniences and are almost totally dependent on the wind, occasionally helped along by rudimentary oars.

The itinerary of the cruise is not rigidly defined, except to say that we will depart from a certain point (usually Aswan or Luxor) and sail for a specified number of days. If the wind is favourable, we should reach our destination within that time, if not we may pull up short and complete the journey by road.

For the duration of the cruise we suggest that you take off your watch and pack it away, time doesn't matter as we travel when it's light and stop when it's dark. During our cruise we make regular stops to visit riverside temples, villages, sandy beaches and for toilet purpose. Each felucca carries between 5-10 passengers, depending on its size. The deck is covered with mattresses and cushions and you will sleep sardine style across the boat. Please note that bedding is not provided, so should bring a sleeping bag and sleeping sheet with you. You willalso need to provide your own towel during the cruise.

A canopy can be erected for protection against the sun during the day or as protection against wind and dew at night. If winds are really strong it might not be possible to sail at all. Each boat has a crew of two sailors, one captain and one deck hand. As well as being experienced Nile sailors they are also responsible for food preparation- offers of help are welcomed - and occasionally for impromptu entertainment. Most of the sailors have been working with us for many years and know how to look after our clients. The direction of the felucca cruise is south to north, which is with the current and against the prevailing wind, which is ideal for a tacking course. Before boarding the feluccas, your tour leader will give you a short briefing on safety procedures and essential do's and don't for the cruise.

	The Nile from the breakfast room of our hotel here in Aswan.
	Colonnades along the outer court of the Philae temple near Aswan.
	The Kiosk of Trajan (or "Pharaoh's Bed" is an unfinished pavilion by the water here at Philae.
	Lunch onboard a Felucca on the first day of our trip. Note how my Source Hydration water bottle can have the inner removed and serve as a beer cooler - I'm very impressed with this one.
	Lunch onboard a Felucca on the first day of our trip. Note how my Source Hydration water bottle can have the inner removed and serve as a beer cooler - I'm very impressed with this one.
	Canadian paramedic Ken proves he's also pretty handy in the role of boat barman.
	Sameh cooking up some sort of vegitable dish as part of this evening's dinner onboard the Felucca.
	Ooops... what happens when you try to pass under a bridge without ducking. The broken mast of our Felucca in need of a little TLC.

Friday 20 September 2002

Day 6, FELUCCA CRUISE - Our route takes us to the Temple at Kom Ombo which you have an opportunity to visit.

KOM OMBO

We have the option to visit the temple of Kom Ombo. It has the distinction of being the only temple dedicated to two gods, Sobek - the crocodile headed god - and Haroeris - a falcon headed god similar in appearance to Horus. Located just a short walk from the river, the temple contains some impressive reliefs. Also of interest is a collection of mummified crocodiles and a well-preserved nilometer, used for measuring the water level in the river.

Sunrise on the Nile.

Ah... what with the little incident with the mast and some unfortunate winds we were running a little late at this point. Still, we are on 'Felucca Time' which is even more flexible than the standard 'Egyptian Time' - no worries, we'll get there when we get there. Meant plenty more time taking it easy on the Nile.

	Rob and Ken enjoy a beer on the Nile as we gently drift downstream and soak up that sun.
	Sunset on the Nile, our sistership (yeah - we had two boats for our group) slowly passes by.

Moored up in the middle of the night, I don't really know where, but there was another Felucca here too and we were treated to some more traditional Nubian entertainment on the river bank.

The Nubian people bring out their drums once more and entertain us (and another boat who also happen to moor nearby) by the camp fire.

Saturday 21 September 2002

Day 7, FELUCCA CRUISE - Continue sailing towards Edfu.

This morning we actually made it to Edfu, after a very early start and a long time drifting with the current (very little wind today, compared with the gales just yesterday).

	Detailed columns at Kom Ombo. Amazingly the colour is still visible here after 2000 years in the sun.
	Incredible detail still shows in the hieroglyphs here at Kom Ombo.

So after our quick stop at Kom Ombo we fall back onto the deck of the Felucca (well - all that walking around is a big change after just lying down for 2 days!) and begin to drift down the Nile once more.

	Nile fisherman passes us close to dusk.
	Sunset on the Nile - simply stunning.

Sunday 22 September 2002

Day 8, EDFU - LUXOR - Disembark from the feluccas at Edfu where there.s a chance to visit the splendid temple of Horus. Transfer to Luxor and check into your hotel. This afternoon we take the horse drawn carriages for a guided visit to Karnak Temple. Approx. 3 hrs driving.

EDFU

Disembarking at Edfu we have the option to visit the temple of Horus before we are transferred to Luxor. Horus is the legendary son of Isis & Osiris and is most commonly depicted as a falcon headed god. By Egyptian standards this temple is not old, dating from Ptolemaic times, but is very well preserved and gives an excellent example of how these temples were laid out.

LUXOR

Despite its historical importance, Luxor is actually quite a small town, though it has grown considerably in recent years with the boom in tourism to Egypt. In ancient times, Luxor, known than as Thebes, was the most important capital of ancient Egypt. Today the whole area is littered with ancient sites and the remains of a glorious past. Within the town itself is Luxor temple and the massive temple complex at Karnak is a short ride along the corniche. With free time in Luxor the more active people hire bicycles and ride to see sites not included in their itinerary. These could include the Nobles tombs, the Ramasseum or Medinat Habu on the west bank or the well maintained Luxor Museum on the east bank. The Movenpick Hotel, on the southern outskirts of Luxor, is famed for its ice cream and travellers have been known to spend hours doing nothing but relaxing and sampling the wide assortment of flavours. Others are content to stroll through the bazaars or relax by one of the many hotel swimming pools.

KARNAK TEMPLE

The temple complex at Karnak is one of the most extensive in the world. Unlike most other temples, Karnak is not the work of just one pharaoh but of many, each trying to outdo his predecessor in architectural achievement. Our Egyptologist will take you through the site pointing out features of particular interest. Especially impressive are the massive columns of the hypostyle hall. For those who wish, there is a sound and light show held at Karnak every evening, with an English performance almost every day. The show is unlike other sound and light shows in Egypt, instead of sitting throughout the performance you walk through the temple as the show progresses. If you only intend to see one sound and light show in Egypt, this is probably the most impressive.

Another deviation from plan here, but if you ask me this all added to the spirit of this trip. Of course, we were running a long way into 'Felucca Time' by now and had pulled up a long way short of Edfu. To make it the rest of the way we clambered into a couple of ute's (erm... covered pick-up trucks) and blasted down the country lanes (or is that desert tracks) into Edfu and hopped out at the Temple of Horus.

	The massive entrance facade to the Temple of Horus here at Edfu.
	Rob, Nat and Mireille inside the Great Court of the Temple of Horus.
	Hieroglyphs on the wall by the Passage of Victory, within the Temple of Horus. Outstanding markings that cover the whole of this wall from the floor to it's apex.

Gotta admit, this was was, for me, the most impressive temple here. It was massive and in perfect condition.

Still - we're not done on the temple trail for today and it was into the next vehical of the day (at least this one had doors, windows and aircon!) and off to Luxor.

Rob get's to sit at the back of our mini-bus and mind the baggage.

Time to dump the bags in our 'campsite' (yes - as the room Seb. and I were allocated was accessed through what was more like a building site!) on arrival in Luxor before getting out once more into the town for some food.

Lunch done - on to the Karnak Temple (in rather cheesy horsedrawn carridge - not my choice I have to say).

	One of the amazing Obelisks of Hatshepsut, the tallest in Egypt.
	Rob inside the Great Hypostyle Hall amongst the 134 towering pillars. This hall is large enough to hold both St Peter's in Rome and London's St Paul's. Lonely Plant cannot be faulted for it's comment, "... there is nothing to do but stand and stare up at the dizzying spectacle."

I'd have to say that I was slightly disappointed (shock!) with Karnak. I'd been looking forward being dazed at the size of the massive columns and the like, which it has to be said was incredible. The whole site was very large though, and we didn't really have time to explore properly, and because of the complex's massive dimensions the place had a bit of an 'untidy' feel to it (compared to the other temples we'd visited which seemed so neat and organised) having parts of monuments scattered all over the place.

Monday 23 September 2002

Day 9, LUXOR - HURGHADA. Ride to the Valley of the Kings on sturdy donkeys. Our route back takes us past the Colossi of Memnon. The afternoon is free. This afternoon we catch the convoy from Luxor to Hurghada. Approx. 5 hrs driving.

DONKEY RIDE

We rise very early (around 4.30 am) to cross the Nile and meet up with our donkeys and 'donkey men'. Once everyone has been allocated a donkey we ride approximately 7 km to the Valley of the Kings. The ride is terrific fun and it takes just over one hour to reach the entrance to the Valley of the Kings. After visiting the Valley of the Kingswe rejoin our donkeys and ride over the hill to a cliff overlooking the Nile Valley. From here, depending on your tour, you will either visit the funeral temple of Queen HATSHEPSUT (Deir El Bahari) or the workers village (Deir El Medina). We then ride back, past the Colossi of Memnon to the river - this will take approximately 45 minutes.

VALLEY OF THE KINGS

The Valley of the Kings is a vast necropolis where the pharaohs of the New Kingdom were entombed. This period included some of the best known pharaohs such as Ramses II, Seti I and of course Tutankhamun. One of the most exciting archaeological discoveries of all time was that of the sealed tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun by Howard Carter.The tickets allow you to visit three tombs and the tour leader will be able to recommend the best tombs to visit.

RED SEA

The Red Sea with spectacular coral gardens and fish life is renowned as one of the world's great diving locations. Years ago it was a place only known to diving enthusiasts and had very few visitors. In recent years Egypt has come to realise the potential the Red Sea and it's coastline offers for tourism and development has been extensive. There are some excellent beaches to be found along the coast and the water temperature is always pleasant for swimming, even in winter months.

Thankfully we got to rest in this morning, leaving for our donkey rendevous around 5:30am. Like the horse drawn carridge the previous evening, donkey riding was something I wouldn't really have chosen to do - in the case of this donkey ride I was happy to have been proven wrong - it was great fun.

Entrance to the Valley of the Kings, close to Luxor.

As seems to be becoming obvious without having to say so, the ancient Valley of the Kings was again amazing. Having grabbed a three tomb pass, as if were, we were escorted around the first two with our guide (from the previous day at Karnak). As with the pyramids one would think that being inside a shady sandstone hole would be cooler than the baking desert sun, but one would be wrong. Again it was very humid and stinking hot, and I couldn't help but wonder if all this humidity could be good for the tombs - I think the toursit board here should seriously consided investing in some de-humdifiers!

After the viewings it was time to trek up to the top of one of the valley walls to meet the trusty group of donkeys (which had been led away when we first arrived at the valley) for the descent back to Luxor.

	The group climb high above the valley floor.
	The Temple of Hatshepsut from the mountains towering above as we ride down from the Valley of the Kings.
	View from atop (ahem... if you can say that when on a 4 foot high donkey) my trusty mule on the way down from the Valley of the Kings.
	On the way down from the Valley of the Kings we pass the Workmen's Village. From here the many labourers would be blindfolded and lead into the valley to try and protect it's secret location.

We came, we saw, we... erm... got back on our bus for the 5ish hour drive to Hurghada. The Red Sea might have spectacular coral gardens and fish life, but I'm afraid we weren't going to see any of it today. In fact, there was no time to do much at all here aside from have dinner in a local sea food restaurant and nap for a couple of hours before the drive round to Sinai.

The more crazy in the group (that's all but three of us) decided that two or three hours sleep was worthless and stayed out until the bus left in what sounded like a pretty cool club. Sorry to say though, clubs are clubs and three hours sleep in a bed is worth 20 on a bus, and on reflection I'm pretty glad I made this choice.

On the road to Hurghada travelling in convoy, as many travellers are now forced to it Egypt.

Tuesday 24 September 2002

Day 10, HURGHADA - SINAI . Early start for a long driving day from Hurghada crossing the Suez canal through Ahmed Hamdy tunnel to Sinai and continue to St Catherine. Overnight in St Catherine. Approx 12 hrs drive.

ST CATHERINE'S MONASTERY

Although it is not the oldest of Egypt's monasteries, St Catherine's is one of the richest and most visited. It is a beautiful Medieval fortified monastery located at the foot of Mt. Sinai, allegedly on the site of the 'burning bush'. The Monastery houses possibly the richest private library in the world and the oldest known copy of the bible, but regrettably these are not open to the public. In fact, visiting hours are very restrictive and unpredictable, though our tours will go inside whenever possible.

	Wonderful views from My Sinai as dusk approaches.
	A rather hot and sweaty Rob (yerch!) atop Mt Sinai afer the 1 hour 15 minute stroll to the top.
	A small chapel here on the summit of Mt Sinai.
Worth the brisk 45 minute walk? Yes, I think so!
	Rob admires the sunset atop Mt Sinai.

Wednesday 25 September 2002

Day 11, MT SINAI - SINAI TREK - Rise early to climb Mt. Sinai (optional) then return and prepare for a trek with local Bedouin. The trek starts with a tough walk across the sand with wonderful views of the Gouna Mountains. We then enter the secluded White Canyon through narrow openings in the mountains. There's time to stop for photos and to enjoy the tranquillity of the Canyon before continuing to Ein Khoudra Oasis for the night. Approx. 1 hr driving to trek start point. Approx. 4-5 hrs walking.

MOUNT SINAI

Whilst at St Catherine there is the opportunity to ascend to the summit of Mt. Sinai to view the sunrise. This means a very early start (about 3am) and involves a strenuous uphill walk of about three hours. In winter, weather conditions could be so severe that it is not possible to make this ascent.

TREKKING

The mountains and valleys of the Sinai High Range offer spectacular scenery, clear air and the opportunity to meet the local people of the area. The trek included in this trip is graded B - moderate and consists of a mixture of long and short walks, ranging from 4.5 to 6 hours walking per day. The trek is lead throughout by Bedouin guides and an Imaginative Traveller Tour Leader. The trek will not take you to high altitudes (the maximum altitude will be 2,285 m), so this is not an issue for consideration. Everyone can walk at his/her own pace and though there is physical exertion, it is sustainable.

Although no previous trekking experience is required for this trip, there are some steep ascents and descents, and long stretches of walking on soft sand which can be tough on your legs. Therefore you require a good level of fitness. The more physically fit you are, the more easily your body will adapt to hiking in the Sinai. Please note that this trek must not be used as a way of getting fit - you must be fit before starting this trip.

Footing can be treacherous, so we recommend that you bring hiking boots with ankle support.

Porters carry all camping equipment and personal luggage, with the aid of camels, leaving you only with a small daypack to carry. Our porters will also take care of all other necessary tasks, such as setting up the communal camp and cooking meals. Most food is fresh and we try to limit tinned or dehydrated food.

Our camping accommodation will be in large communal Bedouin-style tents. Basic equipment such as sleeping mats will be provided, but you will need to bring your own sleep-sheet and sleeping bag. As we are trekking through some Egypt.s most remote regions, please be prepared for very basic washing/toilet facilities. Our tour leader will carry a comprehensive medical kit throughout the duration of the trek.

	The rather nice pool here at our lodgings in the Sinai Desert.
	The St Katherine's Monastery at the foot of Mt Sinai (well - sort of at the foot... at the bottom of the path to it's peak anyhow). This illegedly holds a descendant of the burning bush that spoke to Mosses.
	Inside St Katherine's Monastery.

	Rob in appropriate dress for the Sinai Desert. Head scarf, two water bottles (3 litres) oh... and sunnies of course.
	Inside the White Canyon we had a chance to get out of the fierce desert sun.
	Our desert guide, affectionatly know as Sillyman (a play on his real name which us silly English lot find unpronouncable).
	After exiting the White Canyon we pause for a quick group photo... well, had to be done really, didn't it?

Thursday 26 September 2002

Day 12, SINAI TREK - This morning we start by walking along Wadi Rum, and into Sugar Canyon through a series of narrow passageways. There.s time to explore here before heading to Naqb Mountain. Our trek today involves walking on soft sand, with some ascents. Later in the day, we trek along rocky mountain passes. All this is rather tough on the legs, but you will be rewarded with some stunning views! Overnight in the beautiful Wadi Ghazela. Approx. 6 hrs walking.

	A family of camels take in breakfast as I look on, close to the oasis we spent te night at.
	View from atop (yes... you can definatly say that when on a 8 foot high camel) my trusty camel during the second day of our desert trek.
	Rob of Arabia? Could be...
	What you lookin' at?
	The guys ('Ris and Warwick) wondering into Closed Canyon. You think this is narrow? Nah... see nothin' yet!
	Amazingly this tree seems to grow straight out of that rock formation.
	Sand, rocks, etc? Must be a desert then!
	Forget all those fancy kitchen appliances, the Egyptians feed all their trash to their camels! The remains of a Baraka (that's mineral water to you) box.
	Sand, rocks, etc? Must be a desert then!
	Sand, rocks, etc? Must be a desert then! Erm... and Rob.
	Sand, rocks, etc? Must be a desert then!
	Sunset on the last day of our trek... wonderful.

Friday 27 September 2002

Day 13, TREK . DAHAB - We take a short walk to meet our bus. After bidding farewell to our Bedouin guides, we transfer by road to Dahab where we will stay in a beach campsite. You may choose to relax, swim, or snorkelling amongst some of the Red Sea.s beautiful marine life. Approx. 2 hrs driving.

DAHAB

In some circles, Dahab enjoys a reputation as the place to visit in the Sinai. This claim might be a little exaggerated, but it is certainly a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. There is a relaxed pace of life, long sandy beaches, waterfront cafes, and tiny bazaar offering a selection of souvenirs.

The last Desert sunrise before we head off to the shores of the Red Sea... ahhh.

Saturday 28 September 2002

Day 14, DAHAB . A whole day to relax on the beach or do some swimming or snorkelling. Also it is a chance to enjoy some diving.

Tuesday 1 October 2002

Wednesday 2 October 2002

Thursday 3 October 2002

Friday 4 October 2002

The many eating establishments along the beach here are all pretty similar. They are mostly decorated with colourful lights (as seen here) and have great comfy sofas to lounge in.

Saturday 5 October 2002

Did a spot of shopping before kitting up for the dive safari and heading down to the docks to board Carpe Diem, my home for the next week.

Dive Ras Katy and Temple (night dive).

Sunday 6 October 2002

Dive Gordon Reef, Thomas Reef, Gordon Reef (again at dusk, but not really a true night dive so without tourches).

Monday 7 October 2002

	A reef off Tiran Island, as you can see this is a pretty popular dive location. Many of the dive sites near Sharm el-Sheikh get crowded like this after early morning. Lucky for us on the liveaboard we can get some diving donw before the crowds appear.
	Sunset somewhere on the Red Sea.

Tuesday 8 October 2002

Carpe Diem's launch looking rather the worse for wear. Luckily the repairs went well and we were back riding off to another dive in this later in the day.

Wednesday 9 October 2002

Thursday 10 October 2002

Make a final night dive back at Temple close to the port of Sharm el-Shiekh.

Rob working hard (ahem...) on his tan on the deck of Carpe Diem.

Friday 11 October 2002

Sunrise at Ras Katy, just off Sharm el-Sheikh.

Took a swim onshore (well - onto the jetty of a nearby resort) and climbed out onto it in time to great a couple of ederly tourists who where obviously confused as to where I had come from (perhaps they don't realise that swimming in this millpond sea isn't really a tricky business, and the boat was only moored a 100m or so away?).

Spent the rest of the morning lazing in the sun and messing around in the sea while the Itialians in our group managed to get another couple of dives in. This no diving for 24 hour deal kindof sucks - but killing time on this boat in the sun isn't too much of a hardship

The crew really were good fun, and were loving the time to relax also... messing about in the sea too - even got the giant inner tube out and sat in in playing the drum!

	Crew members of Carpe Diem prooving traditional Egyptian drums are waterproof
	Sadly leaving Carpe Diem.

So... off we go, what lies ahead is 7 hours on the bus, overnight stay at Cairo airport and a couple of flights, then the familiar Heathrow hasstle and a couple of trains to my final destination. However, bearly had I stepped of the Zodiac at Sharm's port than the plan fell appart.

I had planned to get the 3pm bus to Cairo, but as I stepped onshore I remebered I had left my swimmers back on the boat. Damn... but only a pair of trunks so I guess I can live without or have this posted. It was lucky I remebered this though, because it prompted Ronnie to recall he still had my passport back there (this was collected when I boarded). Ooops... now I really can't go anywhere without that, so I wondered over to a nearby cafe and the Zodiac returned to Carpe Diem with a promise to bring said items back within the hour - I would get the 4:30 bus instead.

Sure enough, by 3:15, passport safely stored in money belt I was off to the bus station after the usual round of negotiation with the cabbies, and once there, with the usual round of arguments as they try and renege on the deal.

Hung around waiting for the bus, but it showed up almost on time and I found the back seat empty... excellent, somewhere to stretch out and sleep! Well - 4:30 cam and left, but I was acostomed to this by now, so nothing to worry about. There was a bit of a commotion in the isles as people gestured to the arbaic above the seats and pointed at their tickets. Oops - seems this is allocated seating, but oh well, if someone asks me to move I will plead ignorance.

No big deal, but the next bout of arguments seemed a little more heated, and a group of rather serious guys came stomping down the bus to my seat and began to search under and around it. Pretty confusing, but I wasn't going to ask when I spotted some sort of gun barrel looking thing poking out of a holster under this particular gent's shirt.

Thankfully it seemed I wasn't in the wrong here (yes - this would have been a bit heavy handed for just sitting in the wrong place I thought) but someone else was and this poor chap had now been identified and bundled off the coach and was having his bag riffled through outside. Seems there was some accusation of theif going on and these gun toting fellows were undercover police.

Situation over (well - possibly not for the suspect, but I noted that my bag was still on the coach as it pulled away so that was OK) and our journey began, in true Egyptian style at 15:56... well, that was what the bus clock read - I made it 16:45 (don't forget this was a 16:30 schedule so I think they did OK to be honest).

So I settled down to try and get some rest as I had been joined by just one passenger on the back row, and he was content to be scrunched up on the far site. Bad luck though - because for some reason the conductor (who was also serving drinks) thought nothing of poking me every 10 minutes and asking if I'd like some tea. After 3 or 4 attempts I think he got the picture that I was happy drinking my water. However, so as to not be defeated in his plans to prevent me from sleeping, he then insisted on sitting right in the middle of the back row and take of his shoes, releasing the sort of odor I simply cannot describe (and don't forget I've been around camels and donkeys not so long ago - these beasts would be a welcome change right now). And let's not forget the (what looked like) 1960's movie now playing with the sound blaring from the overhead system.

Oh joy - perhaps I should read, erm... but the reading lights are out (it was dark by now) and I was forced to resort to using my maglite, which was successful for a while until the shaking got too much and I found it hard to focus on my book.

Thankfully, at some point after this I fell asleep and everything was probably going well, until I was woken by a sudden jolt and instinctivly grabbed onto the seat infront as the whole vehical lurched left, then right, then left... but then thankfully came to a standstill with the seat still beneith me. Turns out there was nothing to worry about - the driver hadn't carrered off into the desert (although the way he was going earlier on, this wouldn't have been a surprise) and all that had happened was the nearside front tire had blown out.

So everyone off (who's interested in this, which seemed to be all the men, and the women who wanted to smoke) and a lot of talk and flapping arms ensued. The jack turned out to be too high to get under the now very low chassis. Of course it was pitch dark here and guess who was the only person on the coach to be carrying a tourch?

This vehical really did seem in a spot of bother, but as luck would have it, after 30 minutes or so another East Delta bus came along and stopped, and happened to have empty seats and was en-route to Cairo. The guys I left behind weren't very happy at having to give their only source of light back, but perhaps they resorted back to crawling around under an oily old bus with a lighter (as was the case before I offered the tourch!?).

Sometime later the replacement bus pulled onto the side of the road in Cairo, and from there is was an easy task to find a taxi to the airport and near sanity.

Saturday 12 October 2002